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Santa Barbara Winemakers
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Jaffurs petite sirah, Thompson Vineyard, Santa Barbara County, 2004, Alc 15.8%.

Once in a while you come across a wine that gives you a reaction you least expect. This one, if it didn't have alcohol in it may put Starbucks out of business overnight. Mocha espresso, licorice, tar and treacle shot so fast through my veins my feet tingled. A freebase of this should have been taken by Floyd Landis, he may have finished the Tour de France in about an hour. The high alcohol doesn't run the wine hot but it does make you relaxed very quickly and does let you linger over the rich almost creamy finish, best enjoyed in an horizontal pose. Ah, but this is also a bone dry red, normally found in cab francs. A chalky mineral crispy dryness instantly dispersed my body fat to around the levels enjoyed only by Bruce Lee. My tongue could have smoothed the bark of an oak tree. These are positive observations though. The color is equally monstrous, I bet Craigs hands are still stained from making this. We had to steam clean the Riedels on full power. Possibly one of the best alternatives for the cab hunters who ordinarily find our lighter than Napa wines too delicate.
The Thompson Vineyard, out in Los Alamos has consistently produced such lovely fruit and this grape that was developed in the 19th century by Duriff is no exception. Not an official Rhône, according to the list of 22 acceptable to the HduR lovers. Also not a syrah, not even close, neither hot climate jammy, nor cool climate peppery. Nevertheless, this is most definitely a Santa Barbara wine, it has all the hallmarks of what we enjoy from our great and good. Definitely decant, it's probably worth my while to see how many days this will live and improve but not a chance with this first bottle it's too good to leave it be. It will best be paired with a whole bison on a spit, after one glass you'll have the strength to hoist one over your shoulder you may want to roast up a few pounds of potatoes and couple of gallons of gravy (serves 1).
To reiterate, this is NOT petite, unless you find a female Russian shotput champion delicate and you chew adobe bricks for breakfast. I exaggerate not.
You will find more Jaffurs' wines reviewed here this month because I now have to look at the rest of their portfolio to see where they stand next to this monster.

Cheers

August 9, 2006


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